Expecting the money squeeze, one Japanese firm that usually marketed heavily encrusted diamond pieces, came to the Fair with a gold plated collection. Other international exhibitors showed equally price-reduced lines with an eye toward increasing sales at this exposition.  In most cases, they were right on. Sales were made thoughtfully and warily, but they were made.

Jewelry stood out as the Fair’s strongest product category.  Within the jewelry collections, necklaces made the biggest sales impact.  As one Bloomingdale’s fashion executive put it, “Statement necklaces are still important.” 

                                           Hot Trends in Jewelry

Among the major trends seen here was a new directive in size.  Items were either very tiny and delicate or they were big. The middle ground was strangely missing.   One retailer noted that the tiny pieces of jewelry were so delicate and small, “You can feel the integrity.”

Tiny diamond encrusted necklaces were also outstanding, along with tiny beaded brooches, especially those by Marianne Batile.  Batile added the faces of Comme des Garcons’ Rei Kawakubo and Yves Saint Laurent to her collection this year, a smart decision that allowed her to pick up ten new buyers by the second day of the Show.

   –Another important trend:  Chrome silver looks gave way to yellow gold, which made important inroads in the global market. 

The money exchange also had an effect on the Fair.  For example, British buyers tended to buy less because, as several explained, the British pound was weak against the euro.  “It’s one euro to the pound,” one industry spokesman said, “and that’s a huge challenge.”

GETTING PRODUCTS WITH A GOOD PRICE-TO-VALUE RATIO IS EASY WHEN YOU KNOW WHERE TO LOOK.   HERE ARE SOME EXCELLENT PRODUCTS TO CONSIDER:

• 2-tone woven cuff bracelet

• Chandelier earrings in Southwest design

Handbags, as we have mentioned several times before, were noticeably smaller.  The trend was toward small bags with long shoulder straps, often worn across the body.  The bags tended either to be ornate, with heavy embellishment, or richly imbued with handsome hardware.

                                           Fur is Flying

Like the runway shows around the world for the Fall, fur was the big number at Premiere Classe.  It was really hot as a trim for scarves and as bib-like neck wraps.       Also important was an interesting trend:  Scarves wrapped many times around the neck with a choker peeking out.  The combination made for a very unique accessory look.

Gloves were also a major accessory item at the Fair.  The most popular design here was fingerless, although lace of all sorts stood out.  It seems the fingerless look has been fueled by people who have Blackberries; it makes them easier to use.  

ACCESSORIES WITH AN INTERNATIONAL LOOK ARE BIG AND GETTING BIGGER.  LOOK HERE:

• Shirred satin gloves

• Clear crystal chandelier earrings

A fabulous collection from Gucci included sleek, clean lines and no small amount of feminine styling and images.  The silhouette was lean and polished, with flashes of bare skin to rivet things up a bit.  Slacks were often low slung.  Furs were plentiful. Lace was delightful. Little black gloves were svelte. Feathers and embroidery gave an embellished touch.  Colors were mostly muted or neutral or black.  Shoulders played an important role, often enlarged with shoulder pads. 

Giorgio Armani described his newest collection as “The New Chic,” and it was a particularly fitting descriptive for a marvelous line, conservative and yet spiced with bright colors and prints.  Tailoring was Armani-strong, eveningwear was elegant.  Luxe exotic skins were worn over velvet shorts.  Color was strong, Crayola colors of bright reds and oranges, pinks and emerald greens.  Plenty of basic black and white skirts and blouses were classic.  Shoulders were strong here too, rising impressively above very skinny arms.

    –Accessories included little gloves, slim evening clutches, colorful bracelets and cuffs, big bows, small black fascinator hats.

IF YOU LOVE ITALIAN DESIGN, TOO, (AND WHO DOESN’T?) TRY THESE ACCESSORIES FOR GREAT INSPIRATION:

• Evening clutch in soft leatherette.

• Gorgeous ceramic bracelet in beige hues.

                               Medallions and Minaudieres

Dolce and Gabbana played on a kind of marching forward theme, with lines of models parading army style across the runways, all dressed in black panty-short bottoms and fitted tuxedo-inspired jackets. For his general collection, things moved:  handbags, chains slung around the neck and ending waistline high in tiny change purses. It was all swingy and exciting. Small golden medallion drop earrings were repeated many times.

   –Little wrist-slung purses along with minaudieres were important.  Pins embellished dresses, with hearts and circles big themes.

Black lace and widow dresses were important.  Macramé was pleasantly returned to fashion, and silks and polka dots continued their strong fashion trend.  Florals were big, along with leopard prints.

   –Dangling medallions were everywhere – a reminder of the Sicilian tradition of offering gold to the saints.

                                       Shameless Hedonism

Donatella Versace was her old familiar self this season, presenting a collection of bad, bad girl outfits fit for only the wildest of the species.  As one publication put it, “she honed in on “the racy Versace of yore, when the house stood for such shameless hedonistic pursuits and clothes suited for such.”  Here were “Matrix” badass jackets, skin tight leather leggings with moto details and zippers. 

Colors were – you guessed it – almost always black with touches of electric-hot hues.  Dresses were no less sexy, all designed to reveal as much of the body as possible, many with bare backs and cutouts, and done in bright, wild colors. This was a collection unrestrained and brazen!

Marni stood out from the crowd with a collection heavy on peplums and cartoon forms and impressions.  Here, too, were Seventies graphics and sci-fi geometrics.  Other interesting points to the collection were Mormon-style dresses, floral prints, fur fronted outfits, and polka dots.   

The designer was particularly hot on accessories, showing conservative handbags excited by vibrant prints, clog shoes as well perforated booties, driving gloves, slouchy jewelry.  Rings were unusual, to say the least, made from burnt wood dusted with crushed stone, as one example.  Don’t forget the geek glasses and the incredible retro bright color combinations, like red and green and black and tan.  Whew!

                                         More and Still More

HOT TRENDS TO NOTE FROM MARVELOUS MILAN:  Fringe. Black and white combinations.  Gold!   Leather.  Big dark sunglasses.  Lace.  Colorful prints.  Skinny belts. “Matrix” style jackets. The color black. Oriental inspirations.  Fur.  Statement necklaces.  Cut-outs.  Tight pants.  Short skirts.  Booties.  Little handbags, very swingy.  Wild, mixed color combinations. Feathers. Animal prints.  Florals. Electric colors.  

CREATE YOUR OWN MILAN-INSPIRED FASHION FOR SPRING AND FALL WITH THESE VALUE-PACKED PRODUCTS:

• Oversized metal frame sunglasses – dark and striking!

• Fashion scarves with geometric pattern.

The look is definitely one of true femininity:  elegant, tailored, simplified.  Much of the excess embellishment of earlier seasons is gone.  In its place are clean lines, rich colors, sophisticated and modern fashion. 

Before we go any further, though, we should emphasize:  This minimalism is not one for accessories people to fear.  There is still plenty of excitement and craftsmanship revving up the accessory world, and the cleaner looks actually call for a new emphasis – rather than de-emphasis – on jewelry, handbags, and other accessory pieces.

                                            The Trend Picture

Here is a compilation of what industry observers and participants had to say about the new minimalism trend as seen in Paris:

“Trends such as fur and leather were very prominent, as well as a long, lean silhouette. Accessories continue to be prominent on the runway.”

“We saw Forties and Fifties styles.  Things were very ladylike.  There was lots of gauze and brocade. My only problem was the price:  some of it was outrageous!”

“Best trends included the continuation of the sporty look. Also, studs.  Animal prints.  Feminine frills.  Bows and ruffles.”

PARIS HAS A WAY OF DOMINATING FASHION, DOESN’T IT?  HERE ARE SOME GREAT PARIS-INSPIRED LOOKS TO HELP YOU ACCESSORIZE THE NEWEST LINES:

• Plated fashion choker with mirror-like finish.

• Embellished fleur-de-lis earrings.  What could be more French?

“Hot colors included nudes, neutrals, beiges, greiges, grays, camel, and black.”

“We saw a lot of winter white.  It was fabulous!”

“Colors were more classical.  Camel, gray, navy, and black.”

“The new minimalism was terrific, but there were also plenty of opulent designs, with fur and fur trims and ornate embellishments.” 

                                      Military and Bohemian

“We liked the furs, the knitwear, and the fine and sheer or chunky and highly textured fabrics.” 

“Fall trends included military, active utility, ethnic, nomadic and bohemian.  Fur was everywhere.  Crafty designs included ruffled dressing, pleating and skilled asymmetry. Manipulations such as insets, appliques, patchworks, and collages were big in accessories.  Layered sheer is the new sheer.”

“Feathers and fur dominated the runways.” 

“The textures in black at Nina Ricci made you excited to have a black suit again!”

‘I loved the cropped pants.”

“Metallic embellishments were a key trend.  There was a lot of structure, and architectural interest.” 

METALLICS CONTINUE TO DRAMATIZE THE NEWEST FASHIONS.  HERE ARE SOME TERRIFIC METALLICS TO CONSIDER FOR YOUR FASHION COLLECTION:

• Falcon or eagle pendant in silver plate.  Powerful.

• Sequin purse with sparkling METALLIC LOOK.  Rich.

                                      Longer Hemlines

“Hemlines were longer. And hey…pay attention to this:  that could signal a change in everything, starting with the shoe, which would become more feminine!”

“Trends are important this year:   Minimalism, military, tailoring, leather, fur.  The army green trend was hot.”

And, can we ignore this retailer comment, as quoted in a top fashion publication:

“As far as trends go, we loved the purity and simplicity of Celine and Stella McCartney, the techno richness of Balenciaga, and the opulence of Balmain.”

   –The Vuitton looks were big, with full skirts and dresses all nipped in at the waist and fabulously crafted from the most luxurious fabrics. Browns, blacks, and tans led the color spectrum. Little clutch handbags as well as medium sized handle bags predominated.  Vuitton’s famous 80-year old Speedy bag was reimagined in flocked and sequined monograms, lace and checks.  Overall, the collection was classic, rich, but somewhat boring.

THE IMPACT OF THE cinemagraphic world on fashion seems to grow with each season.  Here, Paul Gaultier for Hermes leaned on sights and impressions from “The Avengers,” with a collection that was luxurious and peppy.  This was a strongly male-inspired collection, with bowler hats everywhere, and an English equestrian flavor.  Ties were hot.  Little handle bags were everywhere.

    –Umbrellas were carried in obvious deference to the English style. Colors were very tan or very black.  Pantsuits, especially with tight leather or knit leggings, were very updated. The iconic Kelly bag took honors on the runway, expressing the overall conservative theme. Skinny belts, some just ribbons tied in front, and dark sunglasses were important.

MAN-TAILORED AND CONSERVATIVE, BUT STILL LUXURIOUSLY RICH. 

IT’S NO CONTRADICTION! LOOK HERE FOR SOME VALUE-PACKED EXAMPLES:

• 4-strand freshwater bracelet.

• Wholesale rhinestone brooch.  Classy!

                                        Seductive Black

THE CONTINUING IMPORTANCE of black was underwritten time and time again in this year.  For example, Mui Mui showed an all black above the knee dress with bell-shaped skirt and puffed-shouldered long sleeves. It also sported hemline appliqués.

Ellie Saab designed a magnificent long cap-sleeved evening dress that skimmed the body seductively and showed no small amount of modest peek-a-boo in its lace top. The dress was all black. 

Minimalist designs have been strong not only in Paris but in Milan and New York.  In France, Brit Stella McCartney displayed a grouping of clean-cut designs with little ornamentation and essentially no accessories.  Not good! Her color choices were gray, tan, white and black with a sprinkling of orange-red here and there.  Emphasis was on precision cut. 

Feathers emerged at Givenchy, where the runway narrative described the collection as “a journey from the mountains to the sea.” Ski and scuba outfits were hot.  Black and tan were, here again, the big colors.  Velvet choker necklaces were handsome.  For eveningwear, a look of sizzling seduction took over, as stunning dresses, with sheer lace inserts and wispy feathers and plumed tops, made their appearance. 

                                         Nun’s Headgear

At Yves Saint Laurent, Stefano Pilati was interesting if a little dull.  Many of his designs were classic and modern, expressing a certain dated motif as they sported a retrospective mood for the famous couture house.  One caped little black dress was charming.  Much of the sportswear was conservative, but chic. 

   –But then came the somewhat unimaginative examples of a hat that looked like a nun’s headgear over a white blouse, with a long chained necklace ending in a tassel and giving the impression of a monastic habit’s rosary.  As one publication claimed:  “It looked like “A Nun’s Story without Audrey Hepburn.” 

   –Caped evening dresses were also too dated, with not enough creativity to carry them.  However, Pilati did steer clear of the minimalist rush spreading through Paris, outfitting his models with lots of little black leather gloves, medium width belts, and nicely embellished bangle bracelets. 

DULL OR DELIGHTFUL, PARIS IS STILL PARIS.  WONDERFUL!  HERE ARE SOME VALUE-PACKED PRODUCTS TO PROMOTE THAT SPECIAL COUTURE LOOK:

• Turquoise and tiger’s eye gemstone chip necklace and earrings set.  Elegant.

• Ladies’ fleur-de-lis sunglasses.  A look to die for!

Women love to copy menswear so, if you want to be really up on what is fashionable, you had better know what is going on in world of men’s couture.  Right now, that is Paris and the big runway shows for men’s designer accessories and clothing.

Trends cross over the men’s and women’s fashion lines with ease.  In the past, they usually only went one way: from menswear to womenswear.  Now, quite a lot of trends are starting up in the women’s camp, and being picked up by men.  It makes for an interesting couture picture!

Moving into Paris, we see lots of trends for the upcoming fall season.  They are dramatic, intense, and on the formal side.  Let’s take a look at the major movers:

Dark Victoriana

BLACK:  Wow!  If you want to adopt just one trend for next autumn, make it black and you will be way up on the fashion agenda.  Black is everywhere! Often, it takes on a post WWII look, mimic-ing the strongly European flavor of the Fifties, only with a slightly more formal tinge.

Paul Helbers, men’s studio director under the artistic direction of Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton, takes a handsomely dark route with a men’s ensemble featuring a black houndstooth short coat over tight black pants.

Alber Elbaz and Lucas Ossendrijver put forth a distinctive all-black outfit for Lanvin:  A black silk suit double lashed at the waist and worn under a black wool coat with strong shoulders and satiny lapels.     –No…this isn’t real formal wear, it’s meant for daytime business, although surely more New York than, say, Los Angeles.

And there is still more and more and more on the hot black runway.  At Dior Homme, a Victorian-touched outfit includes a full black suit with slightly shortened pants over shortie black and buckled boots, a big shouldered black raincoat, and a wide and long black wool scarf.  Very refined, citified.

­–At Yves Saint Laurent, more full black outfits included a suit with (eeeeks!) droopy crotch and cinched waist sash.

THE FLEUR-DE-LIS HAS LONG BEEN A CLASSIC FAVORITE SYMBOL IN MENSWEAR.  LOOK AT THESE TERRIFIC VALUES:

• Large fleur-de-lis key chain with belt clip.

• Fleur-de-lis tie in wrinkle-resistant polyester.  Choice of colors.

British Caps

Toppers, as the Brits might call them, are likewise prominent in menswear for fall.  Very British Isles chic are men’s caps, in solid darks or dark tweeds.  Hermes, for example, showed a good looking tweedy number just made for hiking the Scottish Highlands.

Junya Watanabe embraced trilby hats (like fedoras) for each outfit, some with unexpectedly creative touches.  A black suit, for example, sports motorcycle sleeves and fitted waist, managing to come off with a “made” Wise Guys feeling.

–Berets are yet another important accessory on the menswear line.  Look for them, again, in dark colors, sort of Paris Underground.  Tough.

HATS ARE ALWAYS POPULAR WITH MEN.  LOOK AT THESE FOR GREAT FASHION AT A GREAT PRICE:

• Men’s felt ivy league cap.  Terrific for city or country wear!

• Men’s fedora in houndstooth check.  Classic!

Big News

A wide selection of materials was another “big news” fashion factor Paris.  So was an ecclesiastical story, complete with monk’s habits, clergy collars, even ruffled bibs.  Givenchy’s Riccardo Tisei took this so far he even chose Ave Maria to be played while he paraded his collection down the runway.

Then, there were offbeat Givenchy touches, like a gold necklace worn over a white shirt and looking like a bird’s nest.

Belts have never been so big.  These include double wrapped belts galore, some in heavy western-like leather, others in silky sashes.  Many belts also featured hang-offs, like a small flask shown by Dunhill.

Belts tend to underwrite the emphasis on the waist that is very big this year.  At Ann Demeulemeester, a tied and knotted black cording over dropped-crotch gave a new, different look.

Feminine Touches

While much of the fashion seen for fall is literally dripping with testosterone, here and there is an unexpected soft accessory.  For example, Hermes showed a very lacy white Victorian-looking pocket hanky with a tweed jacket, and at Viktor & Rolf, a lacy bib gave an unusual appearance over a dark shirt and pants outfit.

We can’t finish without mentioning all the stripes flashing their way across the men’s fashion scene.  Wide stripes.  Narrow stripes.  Horizontal stripes.  Vertical stripes.  Material cut into stripes.  Can we say any more?

At agnes b., a hooded black sweat with white stripes was a terrific look for fall.  At Dior Homme, material stripes gave a distinctive look to a long over shirt.  At Dries Van Noten, a red and white stripe over a bright blue vest stood out dramatically.

Uptown excitement is no longer on a single material:  now it’s the element of surprise combinations/shapes/colors that moves the market.

Designers no longer strive for a harmonious aspect or simple concept.  Now it’s the shock value of never-before combinations of hard/soft, plain/patterned, luxe/commonplace:  all kinds of extremes, in concert!

It’s a slithery python world

WHAT ARE THE MAJOR MATERIALS BEING USED IN THIS NEW DECADE?    All leathers, plus the slithery, beautifully hued–and costly– pythons, crocodile (real or mock), chains, glass, brass and crystal (the latter mostly Swarovski, or at least Austrian.)   Lots of metal woven with ribbon or leather strips.  Pearls (real or mock), wood, fossilized materials such as wooly mammoth, mix with crystallized exotics.  And loads more odd-ball but eye-pleasing stuff.

IT IS AN INCREDIBLE COLLECTION OF DESIGN SOURCES, MATERIALS LIKE YOU NEVER SAW BEFORE!

Jewelry, of course, combines much of the same phenomenal mixes, intertwined with super-traditional luxe ingredients such as 18 and 14 karat gold, platinum, sterling silver and their -plates, precious and semi-precious stones and rare “story” materials.  –An interesting aside:  Louis Vuitton has gone crazy for rope.  aH   I wouldn’t be surprised to see treated cobwebs used for delicate strength some time down the road.

YOU CAN TRY JUST A BIT OF MIX AND MATCH ON YOUR OWN RIGHT NOW:

• Multi-row Bracelet.  Stretch contrast lines of turquoise chips, wood beads, ceramic and more.

• Sequined Evening Bag, plucked right from Mardi Gras.  Exuberant!

Muted Colors

MUCH OF THE EXCITEMENT IN THE NEW MATERIALS MIX DERIVES FROM A SOPHISTICATED, MUTED USE OF COLOR.  Look for lots of tan, black, white/cream, grey and…more tan!  It’s the season, long before Spring bursts upon the scene in a bright and joyful palette.  Even decorative crystals seem less blazing, more subtle.  Brights of all colors are simply accents.

–But remember:  No one need be a slave to fashion.  If one’s “color” is bright blue or blazing red, go for it!

Here are some of the season’s key items:  Handbags, handbags, handbags.  Big, medium, small.  Dress or sport.  And chains are everywhere today, as I’ve said before, but now there’s often a combine of a more delicate link chain as the base length of a wide leather shoulder strap.  Coco Chanel originated the then-revolutionary use of chains in women’s apparel and accessories.

–A good current example:  DKNY’s frame leather/chain patterns mate with nail heads that add even more visual interest and shout “Today’s Fashion!”

LOOK FOR CHAINS IN ALL ACCESSORY CATEGORIES!  HERE ARE SOME TO START WITH:

• Rope chain, gold or silver plated.  3 mm, Choose your length.  Basic, Beautiful!

• Fleur de Lis toggle bracelet.  Silverplate, made in America.  Eye catching!

Then consider the so-chic clutch.  One new small clutch has a dazzling petite body with scattered, large and faceted malachite stones, stingray (yes, stingray!) strips and domed metal/stone clasp.  As close to unique as you are likely to find.

Disruptive Handbag Trends

Leather continues as basic bag body matrix, but now it is rarely used solo. Snake and fish “scales” pair up, from python to barkfish and whipsnake. Wood, plastic, crystals, sequins, wool, calfskin and lamb suede, ostrich, much more—all have their place in today’s “disruptive” handbag trends.

Another clutch that fits in the “mini”, or minaudiere category, sports hefty dark glass “polka dots” on the face of a brass and leather body.  And Judith Lieber soars, as always, with her deft décor of Austrian crystal flowers strewn atop unmistakable ostrich leather.  Soft, golden mien!  Bling, but muted.

(TO BE CONTINUED)

NOW THERE’S A RESURGENCE not only of manufacturing in New York, but of fashion industry paired with government efforts to re-establish NYC as the foremost FASHION CENTER OF THE WORLD.  Here are some of the current happenings:

A major promotion is titled FASHION NYC 2020, and it’s a coming-together of local industry leaders and select members of Mayor Bloomberg’s staff.  Brainstorming sessions are already underway to come up with innovative ideas and promotional planning to advance all phases of fashion and accessories merchandising within the 5 boroughs of New York City across the coming decade. The focus is on job creation and successful business operations for wholesale and retail firms, from very small to very substantial fashion enterprises.

[WHAT’S HAPPENING IN NEW YORK CITY HAS REAL SIGNIFICANCE FOR CITIES AND COMMUNITIES ACROSS THE COUNTRY.  THERE ARE SOME TERRIFIC IDEAS HERE FOR YOUR TOWN, TOO!]

Young Talent

The New York project also factors in new beginnings:  the mayor’s office is looking to foster young talent to provide long-term impetus to secure the City’s top-level status both in the mechanics of the fashion and accessories industry as well as the entire spectrum of retail.  Panel discussions feature leaders in everything from design to sourcing and manufacturing and retail, all already actively operating in New York.

– At a dinner held at Macy’s Herald Square recently, fashion executives freely expressed their opinions and what they viewed as basic needs at this juncture.  City officials at each table were seen taking notes.

WOMEN EXECUTIVES WORKING IN THE FASHION WORLD AND LOOKING TO PRESENT A CHIC, PROFESSIONAL APPEARANCE  MIGHT CONSIDER ACCESSORIES FOR JUST THE RIGHT FINISHED LOOK.  SOME EXAMPLES:

• Bow crystal pin adds a handsome accent to a business suit or tailored dress.

• Tailored fashion earrings with crossing pattern in silver or gold plate.

Ways and Means Committees

Ideas range from promos like Fashion’s Night Out, scheduled for September 10^th, with possibly no sales tax, and special events to draw retail customers.   They’re looking for new ways to stimulate tourism linked to local shopping, again with hot-button angles, such as discount coupons or subsidized travel-to-NYC tickets.  Also under discussion are ways to shorten lead time for sources, so that stores can display fashions and accessories not for a coming season, but for right now.

THINGS ARE LOOKING UP—ALREADY!

Statistics bode well for the City:  today there are over 800 fashion businesses in NYC, more than in any other fashion capital worldwide.  (Paris, the second largest, has half that number.)  These produce $10 billion of business that bolsters the economic health of NYC.  In recent years, a good number of designers have looked to domestic sources manufacture their wares.   It’s a matter of balance:  yes, it is cheaper to have manufacturing done in, say, China.  But long-distance supervision of the manufacturing process doesn’t work for many, and for younger designers especially, manufacturing questions or complications are best dealt with in person.

—Also, you eliminate high shipping costs… and now the dollar exchange is weak against a number of other currencies, another factor that increases costs.

A key stumbling block is that offshore manufacturers want to contract with firms that order the highest volume, bypassing smaller orders or, as one designer put it, “putting me at the end of the line.”     Language also can pose communications problems or misunderstandings.  Here, designers have face-to-face control.

Mayor Bloomberg has worked with agencies and the private sector to provide “perks” such as offered by the NYC Fashion Incubator, providing help to promising fashion designers—not only services, but, importantly, studio space at a discounted rental to regular NYC real estate rates.  Once established, it is hoped that these designers, with local roots and connections, will base their operations in New York.

COSTS CAN ALSO BE CONTROLLED BY FINDING THE RIGHT RESOURCE FOR PRODUCTS AVAILABLE HERE IN THE UNITED STATES.  SOME EXAMPLES OF WHAT WE MEAN:

• Wholesale evening bag in high fashion colors.

• Chunky yellow fashion necklace set.  Classy!

WHAT’S IN A NAME?

Another goal is to heighten the prestige of the “MADE IN NEW YORK” label. With a concerted effort, that shouldn’t be hard:  there’s just so much excitement and glamour that has always been linked to the City, including its history as American fashion mecca.  The label should be prized for all it represents:  REBIRTH OF NY’S FABLED GARMENT CENTER—JOBS AND ALL!

-Oscar de la Renta

We are no sooner past the big Spring fashion runup than we’re into Pre-Fall!  However, not everybody feels the same way about the timing and naming of the newest collections just coming out.  Haute couturier Oscar de la Renta, for example, says calling these collections Pre-Fall is all wrong.  He points out that the clothing gets delivered to retailers in May (yes…May!) and he asks, “Do you think a woman is going to buy a dress to keep until September?  No.  They buy now.  They wear now.”

–Hey, that is an important new fashion retail reality:  The immediacy of the buy/wear timing.

Easy transitional dresses led the collections seen in New York this month.  Classic designs were also important, with lean shapes and sharp lines giving a minimalistic

sophistication to many pieces.   But, again, nothing can be said to be all one way.

For example, Carolina Herrera broke with the style trend led by designers like Calvin Klein, presenting instead a grouping of Spanish-hot prints pitted against casual fur trimmed jackets and coats.  One summery spectacular dress featured an intense red/blue/black paint-splattered design against a white background with a strong color development ending in an uneven bright blue hemline. Note the color here.  It is important!

Classic Klein

Calvin Klein returned to his iconic New York design look with a gorgeous long sleeve pant suit in coal black, worn with equally black-black leather high-heeled boots.  The designer also showed a peachy straight cut dress with deep pleatings, worn with same-colored flats and looking very 1970s.

At Oscar de la Renta, the look was festive, rich, and brought up memories of the Romanoffs and the Saudi royal family.  Colors were very strong, vibrant:  Electric green, red, and vivid orange. Oscar kept the party going with even more bright colors (canary yellow, turquoise, and crimson) and embroideries.  This was all very exciting.

Scarves led the accessories parade, with heavy, rich, tasseled edges.  More simple designs included silk flowers in the hair, tight little neck scarves, hoop earrings, and medium sized ornamented clutch bags, all worked against clean, smallish silhouettes, many with an oil-rich Arabian sensitivity. No burkas.  Fabulous!

ACCESSORIES ARE RICH-GIRL NECESSITIES FOR THIS NEW DESIGN STYLE.  HERE ARE SOME QUALITY CHOICES AT REASONABLE PRICES:

• Pashmina scarves.  Choice of colors.  Always spectacular!

• Chunky turquoise necklace

Anatomy of the Look

Tassels, boots, little clutch bags of all styles are all very big here. Huge rings, and those insanely high heels continue to lead the fashion parade for Pre-Fall.  If you want to characterize the clothing, think: Tight. Belted.  Draped.  Stretched.

Skirt hemlines are high.  Tassels drop off many of the dresses. Little jackets over dresses are popular.  Prints are big:  Slightly swirly impressionistic prints in dark colors, and hot pop! colors like pink in polka dots are terrific, trendy.  Many designs are mixed with black.

Offbeat Combination

Waistlines are definitely IN, and, with the exception of a handful of empire styles, they are right where they ought to be.  Tuleh shows a cute pair of faux-fur walking shorts worn with tights and high boots and topped by a white paint-splashed printed jacket with comfortable tie belt.  It is an unusual combination, mixing traditionally cold-weather colors and materials with spring-like white lightness.

D & G shows a very sexy, very close to the body dress with black long sleeved bodice and horizontally stretched pink printed material making up the skirt.  Worn with huge black glasses and long black stockings, it is wildly La Dolce Vita.  Oh!  Oh! You do not get more cosmopolitan than this!

IT LOOKS EASY TO ACCESSORIZE THIS LOOK, BUT DON’T MOVE SO FAST.  FOR REAL FASHION, CHOOSE PIECES WITH QUIET, EUROPEAN EDGINESS:

• Emerald-cut drop CZ earrings with color.

• Chic rimless sunglasses.  Unisex style.  Pure Cannes!

Will we ever be able to deal with all of it?  Because red is elbowing its way into almost every corner of the field.  In May, for example, New York’s Metropolitan Museum’s Costume Institute will unveil its newest Celebration of Women Exhibit and red, needless to say, will be the Exhibition’s color! And what a red it is!  Call it deep, wild, brilliant.  Sensual. Red tomatoes, red raspberries, red roses. Whew!

Red is fiery.  It is the color of volcanoes erupting.  It is the blazing new earth-being-born lava racing to the sea.  Red is hot.  Scorching hot.  And it is impressive.  It affects everyone. 

                                                           Seeing Red

Versace has been one of the first designers to jump into the Red fray with a long slither of a dress in crimson red.  It features a low cut bosom and a long languid slit up the right leg.  Fantastic!  It is being advertised by Neiman Marcus, which proclaims: “We’re seeing red.”  No kidding! 

Of course, no one has ever done real-red quite like Valentino.  It’s as though his reds vibrate and sizzle and move.  One extraordinary street-length piece just off the runway is a “Valentino Red” sleeveless and magnificently draped dress with a criss-cross skirt for better leg movement. 

Valentino shows it with matching dead-on red lipstick and nail polish and terrible-looking reptilian-styled black and dark grey bracelets.  Sort of a classy or luxurious take on yesteryear’s TV special, the Munsters!

HERE ARE SOME IDEAL ACCESSORIES FOR THE COLOR RED, AT AFFORDABLE PRICES: 

• Sassy hat pin in jewel tone red.

• Glass beaded choker with crystal studded pendant.

                                             Almost Lethal!

SO, AS YOU CAN TELL, this new red coming on the fashion scene is anything but sweet or preppy.  It isn’t a Hilfiger red or a Lauren red.  It is far more serious.  Almost lethal!

This intensely saturated red is also unusual for Spring, so expect it to either calm down as the winter months start to wane, or to move into an “evening look” only. After all, how much can simple humans take?

Realize that red is strong.  Very, very strong!  Accessorizing it can be interesting, but not always easy.  On one hand, you can stay with red itself, developing an entire look based on the power of the color.  The problem here is to match the reds.  You have to stay with the intensity at an overall equal pitch.  That’s breathtaking.

Think red dresses, red hats, red jackets and red coats, red makeup, and anything else red you can imagine.  Pouty red lips from the Forties.  Red, red nails.    Red hanging earrings actually work with this story.  So would garnet or ruby-red CZ rings and a bracelet with a few more red gemstones sprinkled about. Red with red works.

You might also pile on some interesting gold-plate necklaces with a modern twist, like the red infusion itself.  Silver also works well here, and surprisingly gives a totally different look to the red from gold.

But to really make things pop, we suggest working opposite colors, no less aggressive, but different.  Like black handbags and shoes.  Or brown croc wallets, and other small leather goods.  Black patent leather is a riveting accessory look. Play with it! 

ACCESSORIZING RED IS A CHALLENGE.  YOU MIGHT START WITH SOME OF THESE TERRIFIC PRODUCTS:

• Winter cozy red fedora with look of wool felt.

• Hemitite chunky bracelet with high luster.  Sophisticated!

                                                     A Profile

WOMEN WHO WEAR RED most successfully generally have a strong sense of self and are not afraid of being self assertive. Don’t suggest it for a shrinking violet.  Color expert Leatrice Eiseman, author of More Alive With Color (Capital Books) points out that because of its intensity, red is not the best color to wear for a job interview. 

   —On the other hand, if you’re the Chairman of the Board, it couldn’t be better!

Mrs. Ronald Reagan gave special meaning to the color red during her husband’s two Presidential terms, wearing it for a wide variety of state affairs and always looking phenomenal in it. Her use of red  was so fashionably powerful, it has been documented in the Smithsonian and will doubtless represent her memory far, far into the nation’s future!

In China, red symbolizes good luck and celebrations.  Back home, red to the Cherokee Indians has long meant success or triumph.  Of course, with all of its dynamism, red has not always vibrated in positive ways. 

As Eiseman points out, its symbolism runs from passionate love to violent warfare.  It is anything but quiet. Or passive.  It affects the mind.  It affects the body.  Studies show that red stimulates a faster heartbeat and speeds up breathing. Approach it carefully!

But don’t miss it.  It won’t stay on this high hill long, it’s too strong for that.  But while it’s here, well….WOW!

According to Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor, “women will be decidedly prudent about what and how they buy this holiday season.”  Sensible gifts are high on the agenda, things like gift cards, toys, and apparel.  Fashion Accessories rack up high popularity figures, too, as they are easy to purchase, don’t require sizing, and can inject a touch of luxury, often at a reasonable price.

        HERE ARE SOME TERRIFIC GIFTS THAT FIT THOSE CRITERIA:

• Ladies’ scarves with pattern of small brown and silvery white squares.  Classy!

• Chenille scarf, hat, glove sets.  Packaged together and perfect for gift-giving!

                                            Control Factor

Value added was of strategic importance in the minds of many prospective customers.  For example, many women said that investing in apparel that is practical but still has special details that set it apart makes them feel like they are getting value for money well spent. 

   –Casual designs were also put high on that practicality list, like handbags that have special compartments for carrying different items, or jewelry that has interchangeable pendants or that can be worn in several different ways.  More for less: that’s the call.

                                              Smaller Items

“I think women are going to go for the affordable fashion item,” said Michelle Madhok, an internet fashion editor. “Smaller items are also big this year, like fingerless gloves, infinity cotton scarves, and anything faux fur, like trapper hats.”

Women are also looking to get more for their dollar.  A remarkable 96 percent of females polled said they will be looking for sales this year.  That’s a really high number!  What’s also a big number, and even more disturbing, is that 64 percent of the polled women said they will be spending less money on gifts this year. A lot will be going the internet route, buying on line despite the added cost of shipping. That will make retailers’ work a little more difficult, as they run to get a bigger share of buyers’ diminishing gift-purchase budgets.

                                                  Steps To Take

What steps can you take to increase your income this Christmas?  Industry sources say, first and foremost: 

• Give and emphasize personal service. Don’t just let customers buy or leave the store.  Help them choose good gifts.  Be a consultant. 
• Offer a well-chosen collection of gifts at different price points.  Keep your choices somewhat below price.  Remember that “sales” element women talked about wanting!
• Go for practicality with added value.  A touch of glitz to an otherwise practical design is great! 

GIFTS WITH ADDED VALUE WILL APPARENTLY BE BIG SALES ITEMS THIS CHRISTMAS SEASON.  HERE ARE SOME THAT COULD ADD BIG VALUE TO YOUR HOLIDAY INVENTORY:

• Oversized tote in washed metallic colors.  Embroidery and sequins add subtle sparkle.

• Bangle bracelets with colored stones.  Silver plated.  Worn alone or in multiples. Very trendy!

                                             The Power of Gift Cards

SOME OF THE Lifestyle Monitor’s survey figures are really interesting and can be extremely helpful to fashion accessory retailers.  For example, two in three females said they would prefer a gift card over an actual gift.  Women like the idea of being able to buy what they personally want, instead of accepting the tastes and decisions of another.  They increasingly appreciate being able to control their own lives, in all of many ways, large and small.

This is a good point for retailers to keep in mind.  Gift cards give control to the receiver.  They are easy to make up (you can do it on you computer!) and make for a quick sale.  Just be sure to give each one a number and back it up with sales information to use when it is brought into your store.  Put up a sign in the store showing that you have gift cards available, and put some effort into selling them.

It is usually easier to sell a card for anything in your store than to sell a particular item!  But remember: Gift Cards should be for purchase only, not for refund!  Idea:  If you are unsure of how to design and write up a Gift Card, just pick up an inexpensive one at your local department store and copy the layout.

WHICH BRINGS US TO AN IMPORTANT PLACE IN HOLIDAY PLANNING. A few hours taken out to visit your premium stores can pay off big this time of year.  The majors usually get their Christmas decorations up early, so now is the time to get out with a pad and pen to jot down some of the creative things they’ve done that you especially like. Ask yourself: What good looking decorations can you duplicate in your store?  A Christmas Tree decorated with jewelry?  A Tropical Christmas theme? A Rock ‘n Roll Holiday?  This is a wonderful season.  Enjoy it!  Help your customers enjoy it, too. After all, everybody wants to be happy. 

   –And you know what?  Happy customers usually buy!