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  AHHH, SPRING!  Fall might be in the air, winter is coming, but spring is just around the corner! That’s what designers had to say at the latest New York Fashion Week, when a new civility arose from the streets of Manhattan, and a new womanly allure took over the fabulous American collections. 

Hemlines have dropped.  Many came to mid-calf, others stopped more conservatively just above the knee, but the big difference was there.  It brought about the same kind of excitement as yesteryear’s collections, when hemline lengths were always the big news factor.

Ralph Lauren, King of the New York Collections, took on the Wild West in a remarkable way.  Here was pioneer lace, plenty of fringe, great conch belts with big silver buckles, even Navajo blankets cut into coat-like wraps. 

Leather and suede and lace and embroidery were the bases on which he built his line, mixing the Seventies with the Eighties, adding a little of the Fifties, and no small amount of very today style. Ruffles, tight pants, shorty jackets, lace coats over chiffon dresses and belts galore were all expertly crafted in a manner befitting a Royal Lady.

Lauren certain didn’t cheat the market of accessories!  Wonderful lacy scarves were added to frontier dresses with leather-and-silver belts.  Beautiful beaded and colorful necklaces were medium-length. Black beaded chokers showed off pendants of colorful design.  Long, silver, swing-y earrings were delicate, as were chiffon gloves worn half-way up the arm. 
















                                                  Classic Klein

CALVIN KLEIN RETURNED to the runways with a clean-lined collection geometrically pure and attention-getting.  Colors were equally without compromise, mostly tans, along with white, blue, black, and red.   Dresses and pantsuits hugged the body gently.  This was Calvin at his most understated best.  Nothing was extraneous.  It was a sleek, easy flowing collection meant to be worn at all times of the day and evening.

    –And that was the temper of the Week.  Surprisingly wearable clothing for real women.  L’Wren Scott sent a charming tan halter top dress with pink sash-like belt down the runway. It was a perfect example of an updated classic expressing a new womanly manner. 

Overall, the collection’s fabrics were luxurious, shimmery, and golden.  Hemlines were conservative, some short, more below the knee. Glamour was the key ingredient of the designer’s intention. Isaac Mizrahi designed a lovely strapless floral dress reminiscent of Hawaii, half yesterday-inspired, half today.  Dress length hit mid-knee. Anna Sui worked with pioneer designs, patchwork quilt styles,

Little clutch bags were seen frequently on the runways.  Some were soft, fabric, fold-overs.  Others were structured little box-like bags.  Necklaces emphasized beads.  Little fabric tie belts were important.  Big statement necklaces also garnered a lot of attention. 

                                                Tibetan Color

Yellow was an up-and-coming color sometimes seen in full, bright hues, at other times as a soft yellow cast on white.  An important trend to notice:  A cast of yellow, pink and orange lit up the runways with a special kind of colorful allure.  There was a definite Tibetan character to the colors and mixes, even though the resulting designs didn’t really speak Tibetan at all. 

The looks were American, European, and here and there Arabian, what with harem pants and loose fitting gossamer fabrics.  Little overall prints were likewise strongly represented.  So were very big brimmed floppy hats, feather boas, clutch handbags galore, and flowers worn in the hair, on the shoulder, just everywhere.   It was all almost exhaustingly delightful, and…the Show goes on…



Comments (0) Posted by Mary McGarry on Thursday, October 21st, 2010

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