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Prints are walking off with high awards as resort continues to fill fashion walkways east to west.  Boho styles take the lead in many collections, as do young, bubbly fashions with young girls and fun quirky tastes in mind. The interesting thing about many of the prints is how they go (or don’t go) together, often creating a chaotic, yet somehow or other pleasant print jumble.

It often reminds me of my Aunt Peggy, who couldn’t put a room together without incorporating a dozen or more prints.  Like many of today’s fashions, she never seemed to think about how one print looked with another.  If she liked it, in it came!

Take a resort runway outfit put together by Nicolas Ghesquiere of Balenciaga.  On top, you have a t-shirt-like blouse, tight to the body and short sleeved, in a gold, black, white, and green geometric print of circles and band-like stripes set in on a diagonal. On the bottom, the same print, essentially, but totally different.  Here is a mini-mini skirt in that same gold, black, and white geometric print, only this time with a blue instead of green base, and it is all running vertically.  It is very strange. 

Balenciaga accessorizes the outfit well, with a skinny gold and black belt and a heavy silver chain choker that is a little offbeat for warm climes.




                                                              Visual Conflict

MARC JACOBS HAS GONE in the same “I really didn’t think too much about the outfit” direction with a swimsuit, overcoat and accessories.  The bikini suit is a tropical print in gold, brown and blue, topped by a gold, long-sleeved mini-skirt-length coat.

The big sunglasses are gold.  The shoes are gold.  But the head scarf is in a tailored large size check of gold, black and white that doesn’t in any way, other than color, relate to the bathing suit.  The handbag is gold on gold, done in a criss–cross design material. 

A few years ago, we would have referred to these pattern mixes as conflicting.  Now, well…I guess you could get used to it! The mantra here might be to choose accessories that don’t go with the outfit, because they do go under the new design formula.  (Maybe.)

SOME OF THE PRINTS are just a little wild by themselves.  A long evening dress from Naeem Khan is on one hand quite beautiful, even though you have to rub your eyes after looking at it.  This is a splatter, multi-print design in many, many colors, from white to black, pink, orange, turquoise, and yellow. The overall print is all over the place:  strips of black and white polka dots, flashes of bright bubbly yellow, long, leaf-like green pieces, white textured material breaks, and black and white lightning-rod shapes.

   –Khan only accessorizes this with a black and gold skinny belt, which is probably just as well.  No need to have the accessories add even more confusion to the mix. 

                                                          Micro Prints

ANOTHER BIG CATEGORY FOR RESORT IS MICRO PRINTS. Take some of Donatella Versace’s latest cruise wear, with her itsy bitsy mini skirted little dress in a mix of micro patterns. This is a terribly young design with a basically green base laced with orange, blue, and black.  Another micro printed Versace dress is a snug, short dress in tiny-dotted violet print overlaid with graphic black elements. 

Most of Versace’s accessories are low-down, on the feet, and very assertive. Versace displays a strong love affair with the wildest of high platform shoes, mostly wrapped in strings and cords and ankle straps, invariably matching the dress in color and mood.

Celine likewise dips into the micro-print arena with micro printed long sleeved blouses in all-over black and white print with matching long hanging scarf.

Many of the exciting prints being seen on fashion runways this year are done in bold patterns.  Others are soft, feminine.  Florals, both traditional and modern, abstract, play an important role.  There is also a distinct presence of retro designs, especially from the 70s and 90s.  Here and there, a bright rose blossom girlie print set against a white background peeks through, bringing back the fashion princess look of the 50s.

   —A very artsy floral look is also on tap for the season, bringing up visions of Claude Monet’s “Water Lilies,” many updated with an overlay appearance of softly blurred geometrics, like little dots or micro squares. 


                                              The Pucci Look

EMILIO PUCCI IS LIKEWISE BACK with his huge as well as micro prints featuring butterflies and wisteria.  These printed dresses are a definite New Millennium take on the designer’s famous yesteryear prints, swirling and curving, and brimming over with color.  Pucci designer Peter Dundas works well with accessories, frequently paring the main color of a dress with the color of bracelets or necklaces.  He also tends to pick up the fabric print forms in the design of the jewelry. Ovals are a particular favorite.  All in all, it looks terrific!



Comments (0) Posted by Mary McGarry on Friday, June 25th, 2010

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