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THE NEWEST PARIS FASHIONS WERE FROLICKED UP AND DOWN Gallic runways with ease and elegance, giving plenty of competition to New York and Milan, while underwriting the fact that the Fashion Industry in this European capital is strong and well and aggressively flirting with fashionistas, worldwide. 


The shows opened with verve, as Dries Van Noten emphasized functional everyday casual clothes, pitting strong color against interesting, muted browns and neutrals.  The design house was also big on print mixes, like one outfit featuring a green floral print skirt, black blouse, and leopard print shorty jacket. 

   —Accessories here were somewhat limited, and centered on medium-large handbags (some looking like gym bags), and great looking animal-print scarves.


Giles Deacon turned the calendar back with Fifties-style fashions, all very feminine and built for movement.  Colors ran from orange to pale blue-grey, with olive a fast following contender and some pops of metallics shaking things up a bit. 


Bows, ruffles, see-through mini skirts in ruffled chiffon, and wild diagonally stretched material swaths like overlays on the outfits, were just some of the images exciting the open hours and days of Paris.  Hairdos ran from almost Marine-short to long, straight and unabashedly sloppy.


                                      Rings, Bracelets Hot Items


While the runway spotlight centered on Paris clothing designs, the classy Van Cleef and Arpels jewelry house launched its own showing, and what an exposition it was, with intricate pieces galore shining and inspiring.  Titled  “Perlee,” the jewelry collection featured delicate rings, earrings and bracelets in rose or white gold. 

    Here were large hoops and stacking rings with beaded details for a shot at real newness.  Some bangles featured large pearl-sized globules while others were edged in tiny delicate beads.  Diamond pave Alhambra motifs were also important. 

   –The firm has also introduced a line of men’s jewelry, which included two beaded ring styles and a brush matte finished bracelet with beaded edges.  









Black held its head up high in Paris as elsewhere in the fashion world this year.  From Limi Feu came a fascinating all-black mixed material long coat with a wool top and ruffled see-through skirt.  From Gareth Pugh came a rather weird design in black featuring leather and matte materials with a geometrically etched big black front piece looking something like a massive scarf.  Strange, Darth-Vader like!  From Nicolas Andreas Taralis came an all black aviator’s outfit with big, ruffled black scarf. This was not unlike a New Millennium take on WWII pilot gear.




Nicolas Ghesquiere for Balenciaga seemed to show a love attachment for the very young, as he sent out a Lolita-attired line of models with little, lacy short skirts under parochial school-like woolen sweaters, a strong point in his collection. Many of the sweaters were playful and charming, like a gray long sleeved woolen one with orange, white, and sky blue geometric design.

    Stripes of color also made for interesting sweater dresses in tan, green, black and gray.  In a more delicate mood was a pale lacy pink sleeveless dress worn with no accessories except very, very high heels.  The rest of Balenciaga echoed the accessory-vacant look. What was going on here?



Belts stayed strong in Paris this year, like a skinny little dark brown belt over gold tights and skinny brown top, along with a gold metallic pieced belt over a wildly sequined, shimmery short skirted dress, both from Balman. 

  The Eighties reigned at Balman, with lots of glitter and glam rock styles.  There were sparkling pinstripes and blinding brocades, no small amount of pantsuits, and party dresses with strong shoulder emphasis.  Metallic sequins and beads were important, along with gold chain details.   



                                   Galliano – A Master Designer


AH, BUT JOHN GALLIANO FOR CHRISTIAN DIOR came through for accessories with excitement and plenty of shine.  Here was a collection of clothes with aristocratic verve – plenty of equestrian and country looks, plaids, brown velvets and fur pieces, like vests. Delicate silks also played a role in the collection, along with big cable knit sweaters, 18th century florals, and faded pinks and greens. 

   –Thigh-high suede and leather boots, along with sexy garters and flimsy knickers mixed sweet with saucy for a wicked look.

       But, to the accessories!  Galliano featured multi-strand bead necklaces, along with white pearl chokers, all together for a bib-like beaded effect.  This multi-strand bead look was repeated in various colors and sizes and styles throughout the collection. 

      Earrings were often very long, beyond just shoulder dusters. And multi-strands.  A great looking hat in brown velvet sat jauntily on the side of the head, like a large, slightly formed beret.

       Galliano’s handbags were medium-large, but certainly not luggage sized.  Black gloves were big.  Rings were very large, sometimes almost lethal looking, in true Gothic-style.  Leather bracelets emphasized a tribal look, along with a metallic statement necklace, very silvery.  

        Some points to keep in mind from Galliano:   Feathers.  Classic looks, like camel hair coats.  Leather.  Big chain shoulder straps on handbags.  Shiny materials. Shimmery embellishments.  Criss-cross material across the bodice of dresses.








Comments (0) Posted by Mary McGarry on Saturday, April 24th, 2010

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