With all the wondrous fashion coming out of Paris and New York, you’d think they’d overwhelm and overpower anyone else. But…don’t believe it. Milan remained the fashion capital of the world again this season, with some of the most exquisite costumes and accessories yet seen.
A fabulous collection from Gucci included sleek, clean lines and no small amount of feminine styling and images. The silhouette was lean and polished, with flashes of bare skin to rivet things up a bit. Slacks were often low slung. Furs were plentiful. Lace was delightful. Little black gloves were svelte. Feathers and embroidery gave an embellished touch. Colors were mostly muted or neutral or black. Shoulders played an important role, often enlarged with shoulder pads.
Giorgio Armani described his newest collection as “The New Chic,” and it was a particularly fitting descriptive for a marvelous line, conservative and yet spiced with bright colors and prints. Tailoring was Armani-strong, eveningwear was elegant. Luxe exotic skins were worn over velvet shorts. Color was strong, Crayola colors of bright reds and oranges, pinks and emerald greens. Plenty of basic black and white skirts and blouses were classic. Shoulders were strong here too, rising impressively above very skinny arms.
–Accessories included little gloves, slim evening clutches, colorful bracelets and cuffs, big bows, small black fascinator hats.
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- Gorgeous ceramic bracelet in beige hues.
Medallions and Minaudieres
Dolce and Gabbana played on a kind of marching forward theme, with lines of models parading army style across the runways, all dressed in black panty-short bottoms and fitted tuxedo-inspired jackets. For his general collection, things moved: handbags, chains slung around the neck and ending waistline high in tiny change purses. It was all swingy and exciting. Small golden medallion drop earrings were repeated many times.
–Little wrist-slung purses along with minaudieres were important. Pins embellished dresses, with hearts and circles big themes.
Black lace and widow dresses were important. Macramé was pleasantly returned to fashion, and silks and polka dots continued their strong fashion trend. Florals were big, along with leopard prints.
–Dangling medallions were everywhere – a reminder of the Sicilian tradition of offering gold to the saints.
Donatella Versace was her old familiar self this season, presenting a collection of bad, bad girl outfits fit for only the wildest of the species. As one publication put it, “she honed in on “the racy Versace of yore, when the house stood for such shameless hedonistic pursuits and clothes suited for such.” Here were “Matrix” badass jackets, skin tight leather leggings with moto details and zippers.
Colors were – you guessed it – almost always black with touches of electric-hot hues. Dresses were no less sexy, all designed to reveal as much of the body as possible, many with bare backs and cutouts, and done in bright, wild colors. This was a collection unrestrained and brazen!
Marni stood out from the crowd with a collection heavy on peplums and cartoon forms and impressions. Here, too, were Seventies graphics and sci-fi geometrics. Other interesting points to the collection were Mormon-style dresses, floral prints, fur fronted outfits, and polka dots.
The designer was particularly hot on accessories, showing conservative handbags excited by vibrant prints, clog shoes as well perforated booties, driving gloves, slouchy jewelry. Rings were unusual, to say the least, made from burnt wood dusted with crushed stone, as one example. Don’t forget the geek glasses and the incredible retro bright color combinations, like red and green and black and tan. Whew!
More and Still More
HOT TRENDS TO NOTE FROM MARVELOUS MILAN: Fringe. Black and white combinations. Gold! Leather. Big dark sunglasses. Lace. Colorful prints. Skinny belts. “Matrix” style jackets. The color black. Oriental inspirations. Fur. Statement necklaces. Cut-outs. Tight pants. Short skirts. Booties. Little handbags, very swingy. Wild, mixed color combinations. Feathers. Animal prints. Florals. Electric colors.
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- Oversized metal frame sunglasses – dark and striking!