MARC JACOBS FOR LOUIS VUITTON was strictly retro this season, with emphasis on handbags and the look of the Fifties. The designer ‘s ambition was to show that even in a digital world, it is good to take time out and see what a truly fine couture house can produce.
–The Vuitton looks were big, with full skirts and dresses all nipped in at the waist and fabulously crafted from the most luxurious fabrics. Browns, blacks, and tans led the color spectrum. Little clutch handbags as well as medium sized handle bags predominated. Vuitton’s famous 80-year old Speedy bag was reimagined in flocked and sequined monograms, lace and checks. Overall, the collection was classic, rich, but somewhat boring.
THE IMPACT OF THE cinemagraphic world on fashion seems to grow with each season. Here, Paul Gaultier for Hermes leaned on sights and impressions from “The Avengers,” with a collection that was luxurious and peppy. This was a strongly male-inspired collection, with bowler hats everywhere, and an English equestrian flavor. Ties were hot. Little handle bags were everywhere.
–Umbrellas were carried in obvious deference to the English style. Colors were very tan or very black. Pantsuits, especially with tight leather or knit leggings, were very updated. The iconic Kelly bag took honors on the runway, expressing the overall conservative theme. Skinny belts, some just ribbons tied in front, and dark sunglasses were important.
MAN-TAILORED AND CONSERVATIVE, BUT STILL LUXURIOUSLY RICH.
IT’S NO CONTRADICTION! LOOK HERE FOR SOME VALUE-PACKED EXAMPLES:
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THE CONTINUING IMPORTANCE of black was underwritten time and time again in this year. For example, Mui Mui showed an all black above the knee dress with bell-shaped skirt and puffed-shouldered long sleeves. It also sported hemline appliqués.
Ellie Saab designed a magnificent long cap-sleeved evening dress that skimmed the body seductively and showed no small amount of modest peek-a-boo in its lace top. The dress was all black.
Minimalist designs have been strong not only in Paris but in Milan and New York. In France, Brit Stella McCartney displayed a grouping of clean-cut designs with little ornamentation and essentially no accessories. Not good! Her color choices were gray, tan, white and black with a sprinkling of orange-red here and there. Emphasis was on precision cut.
Feathers emerged at Givenchy, where the runway narrative described the collection as “a journey from the mountains to the sea.” Ski and scuba outfits were hot. Black and tan were, here again, the big colors. Velvet choker necklaces were handsome. For eveningwear, a look of sizzling seduction took over, as stunning dresses, with sheer lace inserts and wispy feathers and plumed tops, made their appearance.
At Yves Saint Laurent, Stefano Pilati was interesting if a little dull. Many of his designs were classic and modern, expressing a certain dated motif as they sported a retrospective mood for the famous couture house. One caped little black dress was charming. Much of the sportswear was conservative, but chic.
–But then came the somewhat unimaginative examples of a hat that looked like a nun’s headgear over a white blouse, with a long chained necklace ending in a tassel and giving the impression of a monastic habit’s rosary. As one publication claimed: “It looked like “A Nun’s Story without Audrey Hepburn.”
–Caped evening dresses were also too dated, with not enough creativity to carry them. However, Pilati did steer clear of the minimalist rush spreading through Paris, outfitting his models with lots of little black leather gloves, medium width belts, and nicely embellished bangle bracelets.
DULL OR DELIGHTFUL, PARIS IS STILL PARIS. WONDERFUL! HERE ARE SOME VALUE-PACKED PRODUCTS TO PROMOTE THAT SPECIAL COUTURE LOOK:
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