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Who doesn’t adore Marc Jacobs?  Just look at the crush of celebrities at his latest fashion show in New York: Jennifer Lopez, Winona Ryder, Sofia Coppola, Martha Stewart, and Kelly Osborne, among many others, all gorgeously dressed a la Jacobs, and most weighted down by statement jewelry galore, from necklaces to earrings to bracelets, carrying big, big handbags and wearing totally insane spike heels.   This was a fan club of adoring individuals, summed up, as designer Victoria Beckham breathlessly put it,    

                                        “He’s a genius…”                                                  


This was a spectacular Jacobs collection and a very new look. Wearable clothes predominated, as did a comfortable amount of Americana with updated macramé, brocades, glitter, shine, plenty of leather and some fascinating, new ideas for accessorizing with major jewelry pieces and handbags.  Here were sparkling tweeds, glittering stripes, and huge riveting flashes of gold and silver. Here, too, were mixes you wouldn’t expect: plaids, tweeds, Asian influences, all woven together with familiar traces of the past and a barrage of creative, new ideas racing forward into the future, a melting pot of time and fashion design.


—Get the look with big jewelry: Consider a 15-strand necklace of multi-colored amber, gold, white and bronze Bohemia glass beads with Africana inspiration, to wear alone or with other, also big, necklaces; or, look toward India for a beaded  faux amber and turquoise beaded necklace with large enameled antique bronze disk.  Wow!


What’s the big news from New York?  Landscape jewelry! Bracelets not to be believed, often looking like something Alice-in-Wonderland’s Mad Hatter would wear! Multitextural bags and metallic clutch hand bags, many in smooth gold. Big and little tote bags (often in gold, again) in fascinating materials with decorative overlays and flaps (one in faux leopard skin) and pockets. Huge pins, as the idea of statement jewelry moves into all categories. .  Big safety-pin pins!


—Designer looks without the price tag: Opt for landscape jewelry, like a vintage look inverted bib necklace, or a large, multistrand purple necklace that fills in the

bodice with shimmering bejeweled lights!


And, everywhere, there were hats! Especially jaunty little small brimmed hats perched on the side of the head. Super spike heels with extreme pointed toes, all very porno magazine-looking. Cummerbunds. Different looks in necklaces, like a black bead choker with a long and heavy-looking tassel hanging down.  Multiple bracelets in black and red and brown, made from many exciting and different looking materials. Also, dozens of bracelets worn all at once, little slivers of gold and silver, delicate bangles on their own. Also in the Big Apple: Prints on top of prints on top of prints (think floral), a veritable mélange of looks, all well crafted and subtly effective


—Exciting bracelet action: Look for silver plated geometric bracelets for a stunning haute couture look.  Also latch onto the great Zuni-inspired Indian cuff bracelets with needlepoint turquoise look; they look like the real thing, only without the hundreds of dollars price tags.


 Of course, Jacobs wasn’t the only designer on hand at the recent New York shows.  There were the Rodarte sisters, with their real clothes, like pleated and wrap skirts and skinny pants, turned edgy and hot and worn with motorcycle jackets. BUT…what about those tough accessorizes, such as heavy black chains over black rubber bandeau bras.  Whew! 


Designer Monique Lhuillier went sexy with gold and sequins, full sleeve blouses,  Aztec embroideries and global intrigue. The look was mostly long, slinky, like painted-on gold.  From Derek Lam offered  a feathered evening dress in a deep emerald green with a long necklace of red beads  and tassels, giving it all a strangely Asian look  Lam is hot for off-beat  sunglasses,  especially those with light or white rims and big back lenses. And designer after designer offered up a number of trendy ideas shared in common, like  white lace stockings, neutral colors, and clear bright colors.


–Picking up on the color express:  Wear green, it’s not just environmentally sound, it’s also hot!  A good choice is a large forest green ceramic beaded necklace with iridescent black faceted glass separators. Or, check out the many multicolored bangle bracelets available in a wide variety of colors, to be worn in multiples for a NOW look. 


Little belts stayed hot, meaning .skinny little things in a very different color from the rest of the outfit, like yellow over white or green over tan.  See through materials were everywhere.   Black is still very popular, hot, mysterious.   Big black sunglasses never go out of style…they are too Hollywood.  Big, statement necklaces make the scene very new looking, no matter what the outfit!  Lots of horn necklaces, some even gruesome, dangerous looking.  Horn bracelets, too. Plenty of new materials being used for jewelry, as well as new designs and even basic forms.  Some of it is industrial, some futuristic. 


In the handbag arena, a big trend involved straps worn crosswise over the chest.

And the earrings!  They are getting bigger.  Much bigger.  Some designs rise half-way up the ear in light filigree, and then drop down in chandelier fashion. Other very long earrings actually drape on the shoulder…when have you ever seen that?  Zoe Posem’s models wore  earrings that looked like heavy clusters of small coins, long and thickly clustered.  


–Show stopper concepts include big earrings: Modern square earrings in silver plate give a strong architectural look to any outfit.  Concentric oval hoop earrings are available in a variety of colors for a special pop effect.  Textured metal drop earrings that fall down to a handsome tiger’s eye-like disc are Bohemian,  individualistic, and very trendy.


And then, there were the colors.  Not just New York colors (like black and brown and dark blue), but very Italian colors, purple, orange, yellow, bright, intense, vivid! .  Headbands were important, and done in crazy color combinations, like orange, gold, blue, tan…altogether in one piece.  Many fabrics seen at the shows were in bright colors with a very shiny, satiny finish..  Badgley Mischka showed a fun floral dress done in a print that was half 1950s, half very updated NOW. Brilliant.  Interesting!  Realistic!  Trying for a balancing act were neutrals, like safari colors, tan, tan, tan. And, these were anything but also-rans;  the tans and neutrals seen in New York were assertive, and just as self-conscious as any color might be!

Comments (0) Posted by Mary McGarry on Thursday, October 16th, 2008

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